Lady&#39;s garment



Aug. 3, 1954 E, w1| s 2,685,087

LADY'S GARMENT Filed Nov. 15, 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet l IN VEN TOR.

E/eqmof MY/fams ATTOEVEYS 3, 1954 E. 'WlLLlAMS 2,685,087

LADYS GARMENT Filed NOV. 15. 1951 2 Sheets-Sheet 2 INVENTOR.

157607101 M/b'ams ATTORNEYS Patented Aug. 3, 1954 UNI TED S TAT ES OFFIZC E LADY S GARMENT Eleanor Williams, Harrison, N; Y., assignor to TheB'arbizon Corporation, New York,- N. Y., a corporationof. New YorkApplication November 15, 1951,. Serial No. 256,459

5 Claims. 1

This invention relates to an improvement in women's garments and moreparticularly to' an improvement in slips or other undergarments ornightgowns.

An object of the invention is to provide a garment made of acomparatively small number of separate pieces or panels and which whenassembled produce a garment having form fitting qualities in the bodiceand midrifi portion and one whose skirt portion will not ride up on thefigure when the wearer is seated. This object is accomplished: byproviding a garment made essentially of five pieces or panels. The frontpieces comprise a bodice panel, a mid'riff insert panel and a skirtpanel while the back comprises a bodice panel and back skirt panel. Thefront bodice panel is'cut on the biaswhile the front skirt panel andfront midrifi panel are both out on the straight of the goods. The graindirection of the midriff panel is preferably at right angles to that inthe straight out skirt panels. Its lengthwise grain is parallel with thebody circumference of the wearer; The back skirt panel is also cut onthe straight of the goods while the back bodice panel is" out on thebias.

An advantage of providing bias cut bodicepanels in conjunction withstraight out skirt and midrili panels is that the bias cut in the bodicepanels permits them to cling and moldto the bust andwaist lines of awearer for better fit while the-straight cut skirt and midriif panelswill not ride up on the figure while the wearer is seated. There is alsogreater comfort tothe wearer in the straight out skirt and mi'driffpanels and many women prefer this feature because a straight out skirt.and. midriffi will not ride up and will not cling too closely to" thefigure when the wearer is either walking or sitting. Also, the straightout midriff panel holds its shape and does not distort in any manner.Thus it acts as a perfect anchor for the bodice and skirt panels. Thecombination of the bias cut bodice and straight out midrifi sectionswith the straight cut skirt provides a molding of the garment in the topportion of the garment to the body of the wearer and givesa straightline silhouette to the skirt part of the figure.

In addition, a feature of the construction is: that the seams at thejoints between the front and back skirt panels join the front and backpanelssligh-tly on the bias. 'Ihesesl-ightly on thebias joints areadvantageous particularly whenthe wearer issea-ted: because there isthen: a slight give at each side of the garment. This providesadditional comfort andfit in the straight out Another advantage of thebias out of the front and back bodice panels combination withthestraight out midriff' and skirt panels is that donning the garment thebodice will give gener-- ously when the wearer is slipping it over hershoulders and bust line: The garment; therefore, may be put on withoutmuch straining.

A further object and featureof invention is the provision of novel shapeto"- the front midri-lf panel so that it will lend a flattering line' tothe wearer's bust and provide a minimizing appearance tothe waist line.

A further feature of the invention is the-provision of a cross-grainrelationship between the bias cut front bodice panel and the straightoutrnidriff panel. The eiiect' of the cross grain relation'ship is toaddstrength to the waistline partof the garment. The grainsmay runparallelon the two pieces last mentioned but the: cross-grain relationshipispreferable.

Other objects and never features orthe invention will become apparentfrom thefollowing' de scription and the accompanying drawings; wherein"?Figure 1 is a front elevational view ot a garment' embodying inventionas it appears ona wearer;

Figure 2-is a rear elevational view over the garment of Figure 1 asitappears on a"- wearer;

Figure 3 is a frontelevation over the pattern of the front-skirtpanelFigure 4 isa similar elevation of the back skirt panel of the garment;

Figure 5" is an elevational view of the" pattern of the front yo'ke or!bodice panel} Figure 6 is a similar View of the rear yoke or bodice and-Figure 7- is a similar view of the pattern of the m id riii' panel.

Referrin to the drawing the garment I 0 com prises 93- front panel i lout on the; straight at the goods or materiali from which the garment isto be manufactured. The grain directionof cut in: the: material isindicated by the arrow A as will be observed from Figure 32- Thebottomedge I=2 of the-front skirt pariel is curved and the two sideskirt edges [3 and I4 taper toward eaeh' other from: the bottom edge t2while; the top edge is Scalloped; providing the two concave portions Hiand to adjoining-the center concave portion I 1 at opposite endsthereof. The concave portions 3 have slits I500, |6a and 11a forpurposes presently to be described.

A rear or back skirt panel I9 is shown in Figure 4 and as denoted by thearrow B is also out on the straight of the goods or fabric. This backskirt panel It has a curved lower edge 20. The two side edges 2|, 22taper toward each other from the bottom edge 28, to the concave top edge23. This top edge has a slit 23a. for purposes to be described.

As seen in Figure the front yoke or bodice panel 24 is cut on the bias(preferably 45 of the goods or fabric from which it is to be made). Thebias cut is denoted by the arrow C. This front bodice or yoke panel isscalloped convexly on its lower edge providing the two convex portions25 and 2t adjoining the center convex portion 27 at opposite endsthereof. The convex portions have slits 25a, 28a and 2'ia for purposespresently to be described. The side edges 28, 2Q taper towards eachother from the bottom edge. The top edge 38 has symmetrical zigzag shapeas shown.

The back yoke or bodice panel 32 is cut on the bias (preferably 45 ofthe goods or fabric from which it is made). This bias out is preferablyopposite to that of the bias cut of the front yoke or bodice panel andits direction is indicated by the arrow D. This rear bodice or yokepanel as seen in Figure 6 has a substantially straight bottom edge 33provided with the slits 33a for purposes presently described. The sideedges 34 and 35 flare upwardly from the bottom edge 33 and join thesymmetrically arranged zigzag upper edge 36.

The midriif section or panel 33 as seen in Figure 7 is cut on thestraight of the goods or fabric from which it is made. This cut isdenoted by the arrow E. This grain direction of this panel preferably isperpendicular to the direction of the straight cut of the front skirtpanel H but in the alternative as indicated by the dotted arrow Ea mayrun parallel with or in the same direction. This midriff panel has thescalloped lower edge comprising the convex center portion 39 and theadjoining convex portions 44] and ii. The slits 39a and lla are providedin the bottom edge for purposes presently to be described. The sideedges A2 and i3 flare upwardly from the bottom edge and join theconcavely scalloped upper edge consisting of the center concave portion4 1 joining respectively the flats i5 and 45. These flats 55 and as inturn join the concave portions ll and d8 which respectively meet theside edges 42 and 43. The center concave portion 24 is provided with theslits Ma for purposes presently to be described.

It is understood that appropriate seam allowances are provided in therequired edges of the various portions M, 9, 24, 32 and 38.

The five panels or pieces just described are appropriately joinedtogether by sewing the appropriate meeting edges thereof together. Forexample, the side edge M of the front panel portion H is sewed to theside edge 22 of the rear skirt panel portion l9 and the side edge E3 ofthe front skirt panel H is sewed to the side edge 2| of the rear skirtpanel I9. Because these side edges taper, there is a relative bias atthe respective seams which provides a slight give when the wearer isseated.

The bottom edge 33 of the back yoke or bodice panel 32 is sewed to theupper edge 23 of the back skirt panel i9, and also to the meetingportions of the respective concave sections [5 and it of the upper edgeof the front skirt panel H. The lower portions 39, 4E] and M of themidriif panel 33 are sewed respectively to the concave portion ii andthe meeting portions of the concave portions l 5 and it on the upperedge of the front panel H. The side edges 42 and 413 of the bodiceportion 38 are sewed respectively to the lower parts of the side edges34 and of the back yoke or bodice panel 32. The side edges 28 and 29 ofthe front bodice or yoke panel 24 are sewed to the meeting parts of theside edges 34 and 35 of the back yoke or bodice panel 32. The bottomscalloped edge of the front yoke or bodice panel 2% is sewed to theupper edge of the front panel I i. In effecting this sewing the concavelower edge portion 2 of the front bodice or yoke portion 2t it is to benoted is somewhat longer than the corresponding concave section dd ofthe front bodice panel 38 and similarly the convex sections 255 and 25are somewhat longer than the concave portions ll and 48 of the midrifipanel 38. This larger dimension is intended, and in sewing the convexportions 25, 28 and 27 to the corresponding concave portions 47, 58 and2'? the respective sections 25, 26 and 2? are shirred or gathered at 49.This shirring occurs principally at and symmetrically relative to thecusps between the respective convex scallop portions 25, 26 and 27. Thisshirring effects the formation of bust cup sections in the front yokepanel 2d. The two peaks l5 and 4-6 of this midriff panel are speciallydesigned and arranged so that they are in a direct line with each bustposition thereby enhancing the form of the bust. Each high point iscentrally locat-ed relative to the alternating shirring 49 on thebodice. Thus there are four lines of alternating shirring for betterbalance of the bodice panel. Because of these high points 45, 46, theshirring under each bust breaks in two or opposite directions forperfect balance and strain under the bust line. The shirring breaks tothe left and to the right maintaining an equal and perfect molding ofthe bodice.

In all sizes the two points 45 and 46 will be guided so as to be locatedin the proper position on the midriff panel and located in a direct linebelow the bust for better form fitting contour. The scalloped formationof the joint between the midriff panel and of the front yoke or bodicepanel 28 also facilitates stretching action at the waist line and at thesame time permits the garment to mold itself to the waist line of thewearer.

It is to be noted that notwithstanding the fact that both the frontskirt panel H and the rear skirt panel !9 are cut on the straight, theseams between the respective side edges l5 and 22 and i3 and 2! areslightly on the bias relative to each other because of the slopingnature of the side walls of the two panels. This is advantageous becauseit provides the slight give at each side of the garment when the weareris seated.

The slits iSd, Mia, lid, 23a, 25a, 26a, 21a, 33a, sea, did and l iapermit proper fit between meeting edges which are joined together.

The assembled sections just described thus provide a garment in whichthe upper bodice portion both at the front and back is cut on the biasand joined to a straight out Inidrifi section and to a skirt portionwhich both at the front and back is cut on the straight. The bias cutupper panels of the garment tend to mold themselves to the upper part ofthe wearers body while the straight out skirt panels will hang withoutclingin The garment also accomplishes all the objects and features setforth at the outset of this specification.

It is tobe understood of course that the peaks of the zigzag upper edgesof thefront and back panels are joined by the appropriate shoulderstraps 50 to suspend the garment from the wearers shoulders.

While a specific embodiment of the invention has been described,variations in structural detail within the scope of the claims arepossible and are contemplated. There is no intention, therefore; oflimitation to the exact details shown and described.

What is claimed is:

1'. A ladys garment of five fabric panels combined together to form thegarment comprising a front skirt panel out on the straight and hav-- inga' eoncavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight sidedges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edgetoward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midrii f panel cut on thestraight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexlyscallopedbottom edge and straight side edges tapering from the outermostends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost ends of thelast-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias and having azig-zag shaped upper edge, a conv-exly scalloped bottom edge andstraight side edges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-namedbottom edge toward the outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge,a rear skirt panel out on the straight and having a concavely curvedupper edge, a convexly' curved bottom edge, and straight side edgestapering from the outermost ends of the lastnamed bottom edge to theoutermost ends of the last-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel cuton the bias and having a Zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantiallystraight bottom edge and straight side edges flaring from the outermostends of said last-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of saidlastnamed zig-zag shaped upper edge, said five-panels being joinedtogether along meeting side edges of said front and rear skirt panels,along the meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel. and lower edgeof said midriff panel and the lower' outsideedge portions of said rearbodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel andthe lOWer middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along themeeting upper edge of said midriff panel and the lower edge of saidfront bodice panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of saidrear bodice panel and said midriif panel and along the meeting sideedges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodicepanel to form a garment having a bias cut bodice and a straight outmidriif and skirt.

2, A ladysgarment of five fabric panels combined together to form thegarment comprising a front skirt panel out on the straight and having aconcavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight sideedges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edgetoward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midriif panel cut on thestraight and having a grain direction that is perpendicular to that ofthe straight out of said front skirt panel and having a concavelyscalloped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge and straight sideedges tapering from the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edgetoward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, a front bodicepanel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge,a'convexl'y scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges taperingfromthe outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge towardthe outermostends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge; a rear' skirt panel c'ut'on thestraight and having a concavel ycurved upper edge, a convexly curvedbottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermost endsof' the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of the last-namedupper edge, and a rear bodice panel out on the bias and having a zig-zagshaped upper edge, a substantiall straight bottom edge and straight sideedges flaring from the outermost ends of said last-namedbottom edgetowards the outermost ends of said last-named zig-za'g shapedupper edge;said five panel's being joined together along meeting side edges of saidfront and rear skirt panels, along the meeting upper edge of said frontskirt panel and lower edge of said midriff panel and the lower outsideedge portions ofsaidrear bodice panel, along the meeting upper edgeofsaid rear skirt panel and the lower middle edge portion of said rearbodice panel, alongthe meeting upper edge of said midriff' panel and thelower edge of said front bodice'panel, along the meeting side edges of aportion of said rear bodice panel and said midriff panel and along themeeting side edges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and saidfront bodice panel to form a garment having a bias cut bodice and astraight out midriifand skirt.

3'. A ladys garment of live fabric panels combined together to form thegarment comprisinga front skirt panel cut on the straight and having aconcavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight sideedges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edgetoward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a mid'riff panel cut onthestraight and having a cross grain direction that issubstantially'parall'el to that of said front skirt panel and having aconoavely scalloped upper edge, a convexl'y scalloped bottom edge andstraight" side edges taperin from the outermost ends of the last-namedbottom edge toward the outermost ends of the last-named upper edge, afrontbodi'ce panel cut on the bias and having a zig-zag shaped upperedge, a convexly scalloped bottom edge and straight side edges taperingfrom the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward theoutermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rear skirt panel cuton the straight and having a conoav-ely curved upper edge, a convexl'ycurved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermostends of the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of thelast-named'upper edge, and a rear bodice panel cut on thebias and havinga zig-zag shapedupper edge; a substantially straight bottom edgeandstraight side edges flaring from the" outer"- most ends of saidlast-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of said lastnamedzig-zag. shaped. upper edge, said fivepanels being joined together alongmeeting side edges of said front and rear skirt, panels, along thmeeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge of saidmidriff panel and the lower outside edge portions of said rear bodicepanel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel and thelower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along the meetingupper edge of said midriff panel and the lower edge of said front bodicepanel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said rear bodicepanel and said midriff panel and along the meeting side edges of anotherportion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form agarment having a bias cut bodice and a straight out midriff and skirt.

4. A ladys garment of five fabric panels combined together to form thegarment comprising a front skirt panel cut on the straight and hav ing aconcavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight sideedges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edgetoward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midriff panel cut on thestraight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexlyscalloped bottom edge and. straight side edges tapering from theoutermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost endsof the last-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias andhaving a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edgehaving three convex scallops arranged side by side and in which thescalloped upper edge of the midrifi panel meeting therewith has threeconcave scallops arranged side by side for junction with respective ofsaid three convex scallops, the dimensions of said convex scallop-sbeing larger than those of said concave scallop and said convex scallopsbeing shirred adjacent cusps between them so that their junction withthe said concave scallops provide perfectly balanced bust cups and saidfront bodice panel, said front bodice panel having straight side edgestapering from the outermost ends of the said convex scalloped bottomedge toward the outermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rearskirt panel cut on the straight and having a concavely curved upperedge, a convexly curved bottom edge, and straight side edges taperingfrom the outermost ends of the last-named bottom edge to the outermostends of the last-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel cut on thebias and having a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantially straightbottom edge and straight side edges flaring from the outermost ends ofsaid last-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of saidlast-named zig-za shaped upper edge, said five panels being joinedtogether along meeting side edges of said front and rear shirt panels,along the meeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge ofsaid midriff pane]. and the lower outside edge portions of said rearbodice panel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel andthe lower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along themeeting upper edge of said midriif panel and the lower edge of saidfront bodice panel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said.rear bodice panel and said midrifl panel and along the meeting sideedges of another portion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodicepanel to form a garment having a bias out bodice and a straight outmidrifi and skirt.

5. A ladys garment of five fabric panels combined together to form thegarment comprising a front skirt panel cut on the straight and having aconcavely scalloped upper edge, a curved bottom edge and straight sideedges, the latter tapering from the outermost ends of the bottom edgetoward the outermost ends of the upper edge, a midrifi panel cut on thestraight and having a concavely scalloped upper edge, a convexlyscalloped bottom edge and straight side edges tapering from theoutermost ends of the last-named bottom edge toward the outermost endsof the last-named upper edge, a front bodice panel cut on the bias andhaving a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a convexly scalloped bottom edgehaving three convex scallops arranged side by side and in which thescalloped upper edge of the midriii panel meeting therewith has threeconcave Scallops arranged side by side for junction with respective ofsaid three convex scallops, the dimensions of said convex scallops beinglarger than those of said concave scallop and said convex scallops beingshirred adjacent cusps between them positioned to lie in direct linewith respective busts of a wearer and in which said shirring issymmetrically disposed to the right and left of said cusps, therebyproviding a garment in which the bust cups have even strain distributionat each side of the cusps so that uniform bust support occurs, saidfront bodice panel having straight side edges tapering from theoutermost ends of the said convex scalloped bottom edge toward theoutermost ends of the zig-zag shaped upper edge, a rear skirt panel cuton the straight and having a concavely curved upper edge, a convexcurved bottom edge, and straight side edges tapering from the outermostends of the last-named bottom edge to the outermost ends of thelast-named upper edge, and a rear bodice panel out on the bias andhaving a zig-zag shaped upper edge, a substantially straight bottom edgeand straight side edges flaring from the outermost ends of saidlast-named bottom edge towards the outermost ends of said last-namedzig-zag shaped upper edge, said five panels being joined together alongmeeting side edges of said front and rear skirt panels, along themeeting upper edge of said front skirt panel and lower edge of saidmidriff panel and the lower outside edge portions of said rear bodicepanel, along the meeting upper edge of said rear skirt panel and thelower middle edge portion of said rear bodice panel, along the meetingupper edge of said midriff panel and the lower edge of said front bodicepanel, along the meeting side edges of a portion of said rear bodicepanel and said midriif panel and along the meeting side edges of anotherportion of said rear bodice panel and said front bodice panel to form agarment having a bias cut bodice and a straight cut midrifi' and skirt.

References Cited in the file of this patent UNITED STATES PATENTS NumberName Date 2,059,865 Hennessy Nov. 3, 1936 2,245,141 Burger June 10, 19412,412,530 Novy Dec. 10, 1945 2,464,025 Chandler Mar. 8, 1950 2,591,799Friedman Apr. 8, 1952

